Oriental Lily Dress Pattern

EDITED 10/12/2008 TO ADD SMALLER SIZES

EDITED TO CORRECT ERRORS TO ROW 6 AND FOLLOWING INCREASE ROWS on 15/7/2008

Thanks Sue!!!

I love stash buster patterns. I have loads of 100gram and 200gram lots in my stash. This pattern has been designed to use as little as 200gram of yarn and half a ball or so contrast yarn.

This pattern is ideally suited for variegated and striped yarns. If you're after something special, I can thoroughly recommend the hand dyed yarns from the stores on yarn collective; my favourites being Monsterknits, the yarn cafe, Dyelicious and Spare Ribs.

This is a really simple pattern, easy enough for a beginner knitter. If you can cast on, cast off, knit, purl, pick up stitches (only 6) and increase; you can knit this pattern. The best thing of all is you don't need to seam it up at the end as it is completely seamless; just a few loose ends to weave in.

I've tried to make the instructions as easy to follow as possible; who knows they may be straightforward enough that my sister will knit it!!!

This pattern was originally designed to fit my three year old; she is a slight build so I have given chest measurements and ideas on slight alterations to sizings.

Pattern

Sizes: Newborn. 3 months, 6 months, 9 months, 12 months, childs 2-3

Chest measurements based on actual approximate body measurements
Newborn ~ 15 inch/38 cm
3 month ~ 16 inch/41 cm
6 month ~ 17 inch/43 cm
9 month ~ 18 inch/46 cm
12 month ~ 19 inch/48.5 cm
2 years ~ 20 inch/53 cm
fit suitable to close fitting, very close fitting or with negative ease

Yarn: 8 ply/DK weight yarn ~ I used The Wool Company's Utiku Multicolours in 'Watermelon' as the main colour and Cleckheaton Country 8 ply for the contrast colour

* approximately 400yards of the main colour yarn for the largest size; you will need more if you wish to make a longer dress

* 40-100 yards of contrast colour yarn

* 8 stitch markers

Needles: 4mm circulars in 30cm, 60cm and 80cm(optional) lengths

Tension: 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10cm/4 inches in stocking stitch

Abbreviations:

kfab ~ increase by knitting into the front and back of the stitch

M1 ~ make one, increase by picking up the bar between the stitches with the left needle coming from the front and knitting through the back of the picked up bar.

sm ~ stitch marker

slipm ~ slip the stitch marker from the left needle to the right needle

Bodice:

Cast on 24 (28, 32, 36, 40, 44) stitches, I would suggest using the long tail cast on method.

Row 1: In this row, you will be adding stitch markers to show you where to increase.
NB k2, place sm, k4, place sm, k12, place sm, k4, place sm, k2
3m k2, place sm, k4, place sm, k16, place sm, k4, place sm, k2
6m k2, place sm, k6, place sm, k16, place sm, k6, place sm, k2
9m k2, place sm, k6, place sm, k20, place sm, k6, place sm, k2
12m k2, place sm, k8, place sm, k20, place sm, k8, place sm, k2

size 2 and 3: Knit 2, place stitch marker, knit 8, place stitch marker, knit 24, place stitch marker, knit 8, place stitch marker, knit 2.

Row 2: knit

Row 3: In this row you will begin the pattern of increasing.
kfab, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before sm, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before sm, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before sm, kfab, slipm, kfab, kfab

Eg, for size 2: kfab, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit 6, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit 22, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit 6, kfab, slipm, kfab, kfab. (54 stitches in total)

Essentially, you increase in the first stitch of each row, before and after each stitch marker and in the last stitch of the row.

Row 4: knit

Row 5: kfab, knit to one stitch before sm, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before stitch marker, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before sm, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to one stitch before stitch marker, kfab, slipm, kfab, knit to second last stitch, kfab.

Row 6: knit 4, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 4.

Repeat row 5 and 6 until you've worked a total of 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16) sets of increases. The stitch set up between the stitch markers should be
NB 30/32/40/32/30; 164 stitches
3m 30/32/44/32/30; 168 stitches
6m 32/36/46/36/32; 182 stitches
9m 32/36/50/36/32; 186 stitches
12m 34/40/52/40/34; 200 stitches
2y 34/40/56/40/34; a total of 204 stitches.

If you wish to make the next size up I would suggest adding an extra set of increases in here.

Next row: kfab, knit until sm, slip the next 32 (32, 36, 36, 40, 40) stitches which are between the stitch markers onto a piece of scrap yarn (these will become the sleeves) knit 40 (44, 46, 50, 52, 56), slip the next 32 (32, 36, 36, 40, 40) stitches onto another piece of scrap yarn, knit 29 (29, 31, 31, 33, 33), kfab.

For all sizes except the newborn, the following set of rows will complete the bodice:

* Knit 4, purl to last four stitches, knit 4.

* kfab, knit to last stitch, kfab.

Complete the required numbe of sets for each size:
NB - 0, 3m - 1, 6m - 1, 9m - 1, 12m - 1, 2yr - 2.

You should now have a total of 102(108, 114, 118, 124, 130) stitches.

Do not turn work.

With the right side of your work facing (the working yarn will be coming from the right hand needle) slip the first 22 (20, 22, 18, 20, 18) stitches from the left needle onto a stitch holder/ cable needle or another small circular.

Knit into the 23rd (21st, 23rd, 19th, 21st, 19th) stitch to join in the round.

Knit around to the last 22 (20, 22, 18, 20, 18) stitches.

Knit the stitches on the stitch holder together with the last 22(20, 22, 18, 20, 18) stitches on your needle, making sure you purl the last four stitches.

You will be knitting with the stitches on the stitch holder held behind your live working stitches and knitting them together; so bringing your needle through the front stitch and then the back stitch in the same position; then knit them off as one stitch. Purling together the last 4 stitches will continue the garter stitch border that goes around the bodice and neckline.

This will decrease by 22 (20, 22, 18, 20, 18) and create the crossover bodice.

You should now have a total of 80 (88, 92, 100, 104, 112) stitches.

Knit to the underarm. Place stitch marker.

Change to the contrast yarn.

Knit one round.

Purl one round.

Repeat the lst two rounds until you complete 8 (8, 10, 12, 14, 14) rounds in total or your preferred length.

Switch back to the main colour.

you'll now be knitting the skirt.

Skirt:

Knit 10 rounds.

Round 11: In this row you will be placing stitch marker to set up your increases in the skirt. You will be placing a total of 8 increases evenly around the skirt. For some sizes this works exactly, but for the 6 month and 9 month sizes you will need to alternate the number of stitches between the markers.

Knit this round placing a stitch marker after every 10 (11, alternating 11 and 12, alternating 12 and 13, 13, 14) stitches, with 8 stitch markers in total.

Round 12(increase round): * Knit to stitch marker, M1, slipm.... repeat from * to end of round.

For the 2-3 year size, which is a tad longer than tunic length and finishes just below Lily's bum, from hereon I increased every 6 rounds. If you're planning a longer dress, I would suggest adding the increases every 8 rounds for a more elongated skirt increase.

For the newborn size, 24cm from underarm to the bottom of the dress is suggested, with 6 sets of increases every six rounds.

Knit 5 rounds.

Complete increase round, again by M1 before each stitch marker in the round.

Continue with the pattern of increasing every 6 0r 8 rounds.

I completed 10 sets of increases for the size 2 length.

Knit 2 rounds.

Hemline:

Alternate between purling and knitting a round, beginning with a purl round. I completed 5 rounds, thus finishing with a purl round.

Cast off knitwise.

Sleeves:

Transfer one set of sleeve stitches from waste yarn onto a 30cm circular.

Pick up three stitches from under the arm onto the right hand needle. You will see a sideways loop at the edge of each side of the work, pick up the closest to the right needle, pick up through the stitch underneath the arm that sits between the two sides, and then the other loop. I find that picking up these three like this leaves very little gaping or need for darning when it comes to weaving in the ends.

You will have a total of 35 (35, 39, 39, 43, 43) stitches.

Knit 15 (19, 22, 27, 33, 39) rounds.

When knitting your second or so row place a stitch marker to indicate the start of the round. This should come between the 2nd and 3rd picked up stitch under the arm.

Alternative sleeve option:

After picking up stitches knit 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) rounds.

Switch to contrast yarn, knit 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) rounds or your required length of alternating purl, knit for a garter stitch band.

Switch back to the main colour and knit 3 (7, 8, 13, 17, 23) rounds.

Round 16 (20, 23, 28, 34, 40): Work the increases for all sizes. M1, knit remainder of round - 36 (36, 40, 40, 44, 44) stitches.

Round 17 (21, 24, 29, 35, 41): place stitch marker half way around the arm, after the 18th (18th, 20th, 20th, 22nd, 22nd) stitch.

Round 18 (22, 25, 30, 36, 42): knit

Round 19 (23, 26, 31, 37, 43): k18 (18, 20, 20, 22, 22), m1, sm, k18 (18, 20, 20, 22, 22), m1

Continue to increase every 5 rounds in the same manner by M1 before the stitch marker.

For example in the size 2, increases to occur in rounds 48, 53, 58, 63.

Knit sleeves for a total of 36 (40, 43, 48, 54, 65) rounds or desired length.

Sleeve cuff:

Beginning with a purl round, alternate purling and knitting a round for 5 rounds, thus finishing with a purl round.

Cast off knitwise.

Complete the second sleeve in the same manner.

Sleeve lengths are approximately 14 (15.5, 16.5, 18, 20, 23) cms. For longer sleeves I would suggest working more knit rounds in before you begin the increases. For each extra cm you will need to add about 3 rounds.

Weave in ends and gently block dress.

Please email me if you have any questions or find any errors in this pattern ~ tikki@ozebaby.com.au

The copyright of this pattern remains with myself. This pattern is provided free for personal home use only. Commercial use of this pattern is a violation of the copyright.  Selling products made from this pattern is prohibited under the copyright unless express written permission has been granted by myself as of Februry 11 2009.